For a fourth season running, Kanika Goyal returns to New York Fashion Week with her Spring/Summer 24-25 collection called Aether Leak. The collection continues to reinforce the label’s DNA through oversized and gender-fluid clothing, while also keeping it provocative at the same time. ‘As a brand, we have always kept the comfort factor and effortlessness in mind with each piece that we create,’ says Goyal. Garments have easy layers, loose denim, relaxed trenches and breathable knits that are new to this season. ‘We also have tie-up details on the waists that cinch the waist but are still roomy and not restrictive. These can be worn day to night as well,’ adds Kanika. Read along as she constructs her new collection for NYFW and the next big thing in fashion.
Your collection features a variety of textures and fabrics that evoke celestial elements. Can you tell us more about the choice of materials and how they contribute to the overall narrative of the collection?
We used a variety of fabrics this season, keeping in mind that the clothing should be very wearable for the spring-summer season. The collection includes taffeta, a variety of cotton, viscose satins, silks, and lightweight denims. The motifs featured on the garments represent the fleeting moments, the potential for transformation, and the delicate interplay between chaos and order. The collection employs gradient techniques to evoke the illusion of shifting dimensions. Airy fabrics drape like a celestial mist, allowing wearers to embody the nebulous beauty of distant realms. Structured garments incorporate metallic embellishments, emulating the luminous dust particles suspended in the realms of creation.
We have a lot of otherworldly elements in the collection which include a mascot like a peacock spider, and a bunch of Japanese anime motion graphics mixed with pixel flowers that look like geodes. The overall effect is very surreal but also has a bit of an anime undertone.
The collection's color palette transitions from dusty pastels to deep, mysterious shades of the universe. Could you explain the significance of this color progression and how it relates to your theme of cosmic exploration?
The colour palette gracefully transitions from the brief haze of dusty pastels to the deep, mysterious shades of the universe, ranging from dusty, muted hues to iridescent, infinite shades that mirror the transition from earthly haziness to the clarity of divine domains. Textures and fabrics, echoing cosmic grains and the passing softness of clouds, invite wearers to traverse the boundary between tangible and celestial.
What has been your key takeaway from all these years of presenting at the New York Fashion Week?
Season after season, we are humbled to be back in New York to showcase our collections. It’s such an electric and magnetic hub of culture – it serves as the perfect backdrop for the brand and our KGL collections. Representing India at NYFW is a significant honor and a testament to the growing recognition of Indian design talent on the global stage. India’s cultural heritage plays a profound role in influencing our designs, and this collection is no exception. India's rich textile traditions, vibrant colors, and intricate craftsmanship serve as constant sources of inspiration for us. In this collection, we have incorporated elements such as Kantha embroidery, hand-embroidered embellishments, and fluid silhouettes that pay homage to the country's rich cultural tapestry. By showcasing these elements on a global platform, we aim to celebrate the beauty and diversity of Indian design and contribute to a more inclusive and representative fashion industry.
What is the biggest difference you've seen between Indian and international markets and how are you bridging it?
Indian fashion has come a long way in recent years. In the past, Indian fashion was largely influenced by Western trends, but today, there is a growing appreciation for traditional Indian designs and fabrics. This is due in part to the work of homegrown labels like ours, which are committed to promoting Indian culture and heritage through fashion but in a non-conventional way. We are also helping to create a more inclusive fashion industry, where everyone can feel represented. We have a rich cultural heritage, a talented workforce, and a growing domestic market. With the right support, Indian fashion can become a major player in the global fashion industry.
What according to you is the next big thing in fashion?
The "next best thing" in fashion involves expanding creative horizons and contributing to the ever-changing fashion realm. Sustainability-driven innovations and tech-infused garments will help in reimagining fashion shows, as AI technologies continue to advance, their impact on the fashion world is also expected to grow further. It is important to acknowledge that, the ascension of smart textiles stands out as a central and transformative element within the fashion sector. These textiles have the potential to revolutionize our interactions with clothing, elevating the overall fashion experience to new levels of sophistication and innovation.
Words Hansika Lohani
Date 28.09.2023