IDAM by Vivek Karunakaran

Chennai is at the heart of Vivek Karunakaran’s creative journey, shaping his design language with its deep-rooted history, evolving modernity and cultural duality. With IDAM, his new collection, he continues to draw from the city that embraces the old while thriving in the new. From the smell of jasmine at street corners to the rhythm of Carnatic music spilling out of old houses, his work captures a quiet elegance — a blend of discipline, artistry and unspoken pride.
 
Language 
Language defines a place, and for me, Tamil is the heartbeat of Chennai. Its rhythm, its depth, its poetry. Each syllable carries the weight of centuries. Among the greatest literary treasures, the Thirukural stands timeless — a guide to life, morality, and human connection. I was completely enamoured by the concept of Thirukural while creating IDAM. These couplets hold a profound universality — they speak of ethics, love, duty and wisdom most poetically. For me, bringing them into fashion was about giving visual form to something deeply rooted in our culture, but also timeless in its relevance. It wasn’t about being literal, but about channelling that spirit of clarity, strength and moral grounding into the garments where clothes become the canvas for the storytelling.
 
Journey
It started from a place of instinct. I was drawn to silhouettes, textures and the transformative power of clothing. Studying at NIFT gave me a framework, but it was the years after — working, observing, learning, creating — that shaped my voice. Over time, I realised I didn’t just want to make clothes. I wanted to tell stories, to reflect who we are and where we come from. The brand has evolved to be more intentional — less about trends and more about cultural storytelling with global relevance.

Tamilian Heritage 
The jasmine flower or malli poo as it's fondly called, is more than just a floral motif. It is a flower that transcends generations, woven into the daily lives of people — adorned in hair, offered in temples and sold in fragrant garlands across the streets of Chennai.
For me, jasmine is symbolic of quiet strength and fluidity, two qualities that resonate deeply with my design philosophy. In our collection, I’ve translated this into soft, organic drapes that mimic the way jasmine garlands fall, delicate embroideries that capture its intricate petal formations and textures that reflect its ethereal yet resilient nature. The flower’s duality — fragile yet enduring, simple yet luxurious- is something I explore in my silhouettes as well, balancing structure with movement, tradition with modernity. On a personal level, jasmine is a scent that evokes nostalgia — it reminds me of early morning temple visits with my family and the timeless beauty of Tamil culture.  

Redefining Stereotypes 
South Indian clothing has often been reduced to a very limited visual vocabulary; either it's hyper-traditional or overly simplified. I truly believe there’s so much more depth here. The veshti, for instance, is not just a garment — it’s a symbol of grace, ease & quiet power. Our textiles, our tailoring traditions, our approach to ornamentation — they all carry a very distinct refinement that hasn't been fully acknowledged in mainstream fashion.
Through my work, I’m not trying to reinvent South Indian fashion, I’m trying to reveal its inherent modernity. By “re-imagining” silhouettes, elevating the veshti into contemporary menswear and integrating elements like temple-inspired textures, Tamil script and native flora, I want to show that our aesthetic is not static or regional — it’s global, intentional and deeply relevant.

The Future 
Currently we’re working on a new chapter for the brand - one that continues to explore identity, memory and culture, but through a more immersive lens. I’m particularly excited about an upcoming showcase that will take place in a very special setting — it's a heritage environment that aligns beautifully with the spirit of the collection. We have been invited to show our IDAM line at the prestigious Chettinad Heritage Festival. The future, for me, is about creating with purpose being rooted yet experimental, intimate yet expansive. It’s about deepening connections with craft, with community and with self.

This article is from our August EZ. You can read the EZ here. 

Words Neeraja Srinivasan
Date 28-8-2025