Kolkata, a young city rich in history with no shortage of esteemed eateries — ranging from family feasts served thali style to finer experiences. While there is no shortage of flavor to be found, where is the fun? The modern, upscale epicurean meccas boasting the of-the-moment movement to showcase a more diverse Desi culinary expe- rience — where are Kolkata diners heading for that experience? A few months ago the answer was out of town but now with the newest concept to the market, natives of the City of Joy, have their own local hotspot to discover culinary and some creativity.
Enter Madam G.
Formally known as Drishleen Sethi, the proprietress behind the eclectic menu presents innovative Indian fare from across the subcontinent. With no bars on playing it safe, Madam G serves up dishes that uniquely blends Western and local cuisines — like their perfectly pillowy, housemade vada pao stuffed with a crispy soft shell crab and a chicken ghee roast that takes a nod from the popular western chicken and waffles dish, served atop a dosa waffle and finished off with a runny fried egg, and our favorite from their bar bites menu: a crispy khakhra topped with tuna and finished off with sriracha and Kolkatta’s own Ghondoraj zest. Alongside their uncommon creations; the vast menu features traditional fare from around the country, an extensive in-house bread program, and highlights local partner producers throughout.
Sethi’s first independent brand (she is also part of the team behind Ping’s and Saz American Brasserie), the arrival of Madam G to the market is just that: a proclamation of independence — a self-reliant woman here to serve up something different.
And while the vision is hers, Sethi’s savvy sense knows that creativity thrives with collaboration, as she enlisted Chef Tanmoy Ghosh and multidisciplinary artist, chef and friend, Eeshan Kashyap to concept this modern, pan-Indian showcase. The wow-moments do not start and end with the food, but with an equally progressive cocktail menu and design features that include matka lampshades and a full feature wall hand painted by Kashyap himself. Madam G serves an experience for the senses, all while reminding us that sometimes it’s best to stray from convention.
Words Gauri Sarin
Date 01.03.2024