Aneeth Arora

Aneeth Arora Heartsong

Almost 15 years ago, when Aneeth Arora started making clothes, what the Indian market was focussing on was more decadent and occasion wear. People wanted to stand out of the crowd and fashion was all about being prim. What Aneeth brought to the table was non-existent at that point. It was not about standing out. It was about blending in but still feeling good in what you were wearing. She changed the narrative in the fashion industry and also closely looked at Indian traditional textiles and crafts. Aneeth started giving importance to handmade almost in a way that it's couture which was something very special. Staying true to her ethos still, the starting point for her new collection was the nature of the textile. She talks to us about it. 

What inspired your new collection, Heartsong?
The starting point always for us is either the textiles or the colours for the season. And this season we wanted to work with vintage French textiles. That's where it all began. And because we were taking inspiration from French textiles and European antique fabrics, the whole mood for the season became more countryside and relaxed, away from the chaos which became our campaign. It all started with the vintage French textiles. 

And the colour palette?
When we were working with French textiles, we were looking at a lot of linens, vintage linen tiles and embroideries. And most of it is beige and off-white — the natural color of linen. In most of the French tiles, you can see a red or a blue line running across and then there are these monograms which are hand embroidered with needlepoint or petted point embroidery. That is pretty much the mood of the collection and, it’s minimal colours like beige and off-white but with accents of reds and blues. 

Aneeth Arora

How has your creative process evolved in all these years?
There were no sketches that ever existed at Péro but we always were very hands-on and we would always refer to you know tactile things whether it is a piece of clothing that we've collected from somewhere or textiles that we keep collecting. So, it was always laid on the table and then we worked from there, manipulating it and trying to do what we wanted to do with it. But of course, the process has become a lot more rigorous because we've also learned the importance of the process. Initially, it was a smaller team and we would make decisions last minute but because we were very strictly following the international fashion cycle and we were showcasing internationally alongside all the trade shows that happened so we realised that we were working with two extremes in the fashion industry with a very strict deadline, which we can't falter. And on the other hand, there is a very flexible lifestyle of these craftspeople, where we can't impose ourselves on them because they have their own way of living and doing things. So we had to balance that out and we did that through the very rigorous processes that we follow, where we start two years in advance to even make the textiles for the season. And while the textiles are in making, we indulge in the research for the season. The entire team studies the theme that we want to work on. With time the importance has been more and more on the process and the research which has also brought in some kind of ease and it has become an organic process that we don't even realise that we’ve taken very complicated themes or inspirations. It, organically, just leads us to the product and the culmination of the season because the process is becoming very strong. 

Aneeth Arora

What will be the colour or fabric for the season? 
We have worked with very tightly woven cotton this time, like a very crisp cotton and I think that is something we feel that can become a wardrobe essential. It’s a very crisp white shirt with the all detailing that we've done. So I feel that from the materials that we've used this season, where we have linens as well, along with light chanderis, I feel that the tightly woven crisp cotton, is the hero for us.

Words Hansika Lohani
Date 04.04.2024