Recently opened its doors in the Maximum city, Dharki is a handloom fashion label that offers exquisite designs, showcasing the rich legacy of weaving heritage and the contemporary sensibility of designer Brijesh Gupta. The brainchild of Dharki, Brijesh grew up in a textile family that was deeply rooted in the craft of Banarasi sarees.
‘In the narrow lanes of my hometown, every corner held a story. My earliest memories are painted with the vivid hues of handwoven fabrics drying in the sun, and the aromas of natural dyes. Born into a family which is deeply rooted in the weaving community, instilled in me a profound appreciation for the craft. I would often find myself sitting beside the loom, mesmerised by the intricate dance of threads, learning the language of patterns and designs that spoke volumes about our cultural identity. The stories my grandparents told, the songs sung during festive weaving gatherings, and the bustling markets filled with handcrafted treasures—all of these experiences shaped my understanding of handloom textile, weaving and its design sensibility.’
Next, guided by mentors who were master weavers and artisans, he began to experiment with designs that paid homage to their heritage weaving translating into contemporary textile illustrations. The label’s design sensibility is characterized by a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity, with a focus on contemporary design, sustainable practices, and inclusivity. The name of the brand is a symbolic representation of a weaving shuttle—the tool of the trade. Dharki echoes not only the rhythmic motion of the shuttle but also the pulsating heart of a craft that has been passed down through generations. In the present day, the Dharki stands as a testament to the legacy of its namesake.
The designer’s most talked about design is inspired by the celestial phenomenon of the cosmos and the cross-disciplinary nature of architectural elements. The big circle or ‘Gola’ design takes center stage, representing the celestial bodies of the cosmos. ‘The design ideation begins with the idea that the circle, a shape both simple and profound, mirrors the celestial bodies – the sun and the moon creating a tapestry to time and space. The choice of singular big motifs in the entire collection with a blank canvas reflects the unique celestial in the vast expanse of the universe. The colour palette reflects the hues of the universe. Imagine strolling down the cobblestone streets of historic cities, surrounded by the grandeur of arches that stand as timeless symbol of craftsmanship. I am excited about the prospect of bringing the concept to life and creating textiles which are not only visually stunning but challenging in looms.’
‘The store is an interplay of textures including wood, copper and silk that gives an even lusher feel. The rugged, rocky floors and exposed arches hint at a bygone era and exude an old-world charm that is an ideal backdrop for the Dharki clothing. The interior design of the new store was inspired by my Nani’s cupboards from the haveli she grew up in, in central India. I then went on to design my entire dressing room at my own home in Mumbai with the same cabinetry which has now inspired the display of Dharki’s textiles at the Mélange store. Once again, Mélange, an ever-evolving space to showcase fashion and design, has been transformed.’
Words Hansika Lohani
Date 21.02.2024
