A Mouthful of Coastal India At Hosa

Spices, herbs, fruits, vegetables, pulses, grains, nuts, family favourites, history in a whiff and a mouthful. That sums up the experience of Indian coastal food served recently in course after course at Hosa in Gurgaon, Goa’s favourite coastal food restaurant. The only thing missing was the wood fire smoke filling up the senses. The food however, reminded me why India is so incredible. A composite cuisine beyond the politics of exclusion and prejudice absorbs various cultural strains, blends diverse influences into flavours that ring true and belong to everyone who cares to taste and sigh with contentment.

Chef Harish Rao who was asked to preside over Hosa in Gurgaon after perfecting it in Goa, is a touchingly humble man. Someone who has cooked for over 20 years but does not have the arrogance of calling himself a master chef. When asked about his life, he rattles off his travels and how they made him the man and the chef he is. I did not know whether to applaud his humility or to rue the fact that the food scene in India today is cluttered with celebrity chefs with more ambition than talent. ‘What we are doing here is like, we are catering the food which is very honest and telling them … I’m just keeping it the way it has to be and educating everyone this is how it’s supposed to be eaten and it’s well received so far,’ says Chef Harish.

I have not travelled to the South of India often or explored the coastal belt too much but the traditional recipes that Hosa digs up from unsung home kitchens, educate my untutored taste buds and teach me to distinguish flavours. Though I still have not learnt the fine nuances that can help me trace back a dish to Alleppey or a Madurai recipe book or to Kollam, Alappuzha and Chaganassary kitchens. ‘At HOSA, we are doing, getting into the roots of micro cuisines of South India, handpicking recipes.’ Chef explains.

I am a vegetarian so the flavours of the Lamb Shank and the Pork Curry escaped me but there was a lot to marvel at. The cracked potatoes and the sorakkai salad, raw banana paniyaram or the elaneer peppery fry served with akki roti. My favourite was a shimeji mushroom varuval that came with a button mushroom pate and green pepper. Hosa’s menu is not about modern or 'molecular' food, but about honest, soulful, shareable regional cuisine with a story behind every dish. 

The curries varied from a crowd favourite ghee roast mutton in kundapur masala and served with ghee podi dosa. There was also bun and stew in chicken with exotic vegetables, coconut milk and a homemade bun. For vegetarians, a nice preparation of vegetables in Alleppey curry which is basically coconut based, has raw mango and served with ghee rice.

It was the dessert spread that blew me away with a coconut and curry leaf ice cream served with coconut cookies and another one called chocolate chilli which is their signature cheesecake served with warm ganache. They were not serving the filter coffee tiramisu when we visited but we have heard that it is one of their most popular picks.

Just a few weeks old, Hosa is already dishing out refreshing regional surprises and though a high-end restaurant, it always feels like home because of the humility of resident mentor and master chef Harish Rao, who is always willing to share stories, anecdotes and recipes. Visit Hosa for food that is honest, authentic and served with old-fashioned courtesy. You will go back for more.

Words Hansika Lohani
Date 13-11-2025