Alighting from the early morning train, I soaked in the encompassing familiarity. The Dehradun railway station hadn’t changed a bit since the first time I’d ever visited it – a distant first visit I don’t recall now. That station where the 1st and 2nd platforms sufficed almost always. I stepped out of the station as the morning mist of the Doon enveloped us. As our cab taxied through the roads of the sleeping town-turned-city, I looked at those familiar roads and cafes in a new light. Crossing out of the city to the green Rajpur Road, the chill took a swipe at me. It seemed to whisper a welcome – 'You’re back'. I felt safe! The road meandered up the mountains through those too-familiar bends – the ones I’ve been on so many times earlier with family, my school friends – experiences that had a hand in shaping me today.
Perch Lounge
Roads are made for travellers in this area, distances are measured in the time it should take to each and anyway, no one is in a hurry. The sun will rise and set as it always does, grass will grow and vegetables will be plucked. Eventually, we all get to where we are meant to be. Today, for me, it is an enchanting mountain hotel, JW Marriott Mussoorie Walnut Grove & Spa, where we were welcomed by the most polite people: a dream property overlooking a valley and surrounded by lush natural foliage.
Perched ethereally at the foothills of the Garhwal Himalayan ranges, JW Marriott Mussoorie Walnut Grove & Spa, sits right in the centre of a vast valley and cuts elegantly into the pristine blue of the Uttaranchal sky. You go to sleep with hundreds of stars shining in the darkness beyond your bedroom window. You wake up with the first rays of the mountain sun. They take pride in seamlessly blending tranquillity with contemporary design, offering 115 state-of-the-art accommodations that provide breathtaking views from every corner. As soon as you enter, the rich Oriental interiors, with their high ceilings, antique pieces in cute corners and massive French windows speak of grandeur. As I entered our suite, I threw open those big windows that looked out onto the valley, as cold mist entered the room. It is a massive property that gives you relaxation and leisure, featuring six restaurants, a serene spa, and an indoor pool, with a side of stunning views.
For the next four days, the staff at JW Marriott Mussoorie Walnut Grove & Spa orchestrated a resort experience where no detail was overlooked, and warm hospitality was elevated by subtle touches to create a memorable stay for me. As we delve deeper into this enchanting retreat, we'll explore the culinary delights that showcase the region's flavours, meet the knowledgeable in-house naturalists who guide you through the stunning landscapes and hidden treasures, and discover the unique features that make the hotel a truly great destination.
L-R: The Trailhead, Naturalist, Sandeep
One memorable experience was enjoying a beautiful walking trail just a stone’s throw from the hotel. On this trek, guided on foot by the in-house naturalist, Sandeep, you pass luxurious deodars with spiky-edged leaves and clumps of rhododendron trees that spout bright red blossoms every summer. You hear the ear splitting 'kaafal pako, meil na chakho' (the kaafal fruit has ripened but I haven’t tasted it yet) of the shrill and whiny hill bird, you sting your fingers on thorns from the Hisalu bushes.
L-R: Goldcrest tree, Towering Pine Trees
While walking through the sharp curves, slippery pebbles and steep paths, the destination is seldom a goal for trekkers. The beauty of a trek is the journey. The excursion is a humbling experience in itself, especially for us city folks. While a walk through the city streets takes us through busy roads, noisy streets and pollution-filled air, a trek through the forests takes us through a 'road' less travelled, filled with the sounds of birds, flowing water and bristling trees. The aromatic smell of Cedar (Deodar) trees has an energizing effect on the mind and body in contrast to the toxic air of our cities. Our destination was a serene picnic spot in a pine forest where Sandeep recited tales of the forest while cooking maggi for us on nothing but wood collected from the nearby shrubs and branches, which is the only source of energy for heating and at times, even cooking in that area.
The Garhwal region is a culinary treasure, celebrated for its vibrant flavours and seasonal produce. At JW Marriott Mussoorie Walnut Grove & Spa, guests experience authentic local cuisine that showcases dishes like Jakhia aloo and Gehat ki Dal, crafted from fresh, organic ingredients sourced from nearby farms including their own little garden. JW Garden at the hotel is helmed by Rajat who is an horticulturist trying to finish his PHD in cultivating plants, fruits, and vegetables. This hotel not only offers a taste of Garhwal's heritage but also champions the organic movement, supporting local farmers and sustainable practices.
Wisteria Deck
Under the guidance of Chef Rohit Chadha, each restaurant at the hotel serves outstanding food. Wisteria (as seen in the photos above) is famous for its wood-fired pizzas and Himalayan red rice risotto, while Trout brings you authentic North Indian flavours. The chefs’ expertise guarantees you’ll leave completely satisfied. One of our most memorable meals was at Teppan, the Japanese restaurant, where the Miso Soup and Tori Katsu truly stood out.
Brunch by the Stream
Before we bid goodbye to the glowing white ranges, there was one last excursion on the itinerary, straight out of an adventure novel: brunch in the stream. It might not sound extraordinary at first, but the experience is literally set in the water, not beside it. You sit with your feet dipped into a gushing mountain stream, cold Himalayan water swirling around your ankles as you are served steaming hot plates of food that wrap you in comfort and warmth. No matter what time of the day, the water is quite cold there thanks to its glacial source in the high peaks of the Himalayas. You trek down a rocky hill to reach the clearing, where the staff greet you with hot ginger tea and easy smiles. You pinch yourself to make sure all that stretches out in front of your eyes is for real. Spend a few days at JW Marriott Mussoorie Walnut Grove & Spa and you realize it’s the stuff perfect moments are made of.
Words Hansika Lohani
Date 28-11-2025