Beyond Restraint

Beyond Restraint Gaurav Gupta’s Language for Menswear

Gaurav Gupta’s first-ever menswear store finds a home at his old spot, but with renewed energy. The space does not reveal itself immediately, much like his drapes that unfold slowly. The store mirrors how Gaurav thinks about form: 'not as static, but as something that evolves as you move through it.'
 
His womenswear has long embodied a kind of structured fluidity, pieces that make a statement yet resist traditional gendering for GG. He has now translated that language into menswear, a category historically known for its restraint. He is on a mission to soften the traditional codes of masculinity, one garment at a time. In many ways, he has already succeeded, and this store stands as a significant milestone in that ongoing journey. Here GG decodes the new space for us, along with his latest experiments.
 
You once said you’re up for designing anything – even a city. With that in mind, what were the initial conversations around the store’s structure, and how involved were you in creating this space? Does the architecture or layout echo your signature sculptural language?
From the very beginning, the conversation was not about building a store, but about creating a world. I was deeply involved in shaping the spatial language because I see architecture as an extension of design. The layout echoes the same sculptural principles that guide my garments: fluidity, compression, release, and movement. It mirrors how I think about form, not as static, but as something that evolves as you move through it.

Beyond Restraint

How have you translated your fluid design language into menswear, which has historically been more restrained?
For me, fluidity is not gendered. Structure and softness can coexist beautifully in menswear. The translation happens through proportion, tailoring, and restraint. Menswear demands a quieter language, but within that restraint, there is immense room for expression through drape, texture, and subtle ornamentation. It is about finding emotion within discipline.
 
How do you imagine the man who wears your designs, and in what ways do you reinterpret masculinity through your design lens?
I imagine a man who is emotionally intelligent and comfortable with vulnerability. Someone who understands that strength is not rigidity, but presence. Through my designs, I try to soften the traditional codes of masculinity. I am interested in creating garments that allow men to express sensitivity, elegance, and introspection without losing authority. That balance fascinates me.

“For me, fluidity is not gendered.”

Have you been experimenting with any new materials specifically for menswear?
Yes, very much so. Menswear allows for a different kind of material exploration. We have been working with developed jacquards, tonal embroideries, layered textiles, and lighter bases that allow movement without compromising structure. The focus has been on creating surfaces that feel rich but remain wearable and breathable, especially for Indian climates.
 
When it comes to menswear, how do you balance ornamentation with structure, particularly when you’re pushing couture-level detailing?
The key is restraint. Ornamentation must feel like an extension of the garment rather than an addition to it. In menswear, every detail has to justify its presence. I am very conscious of proportion, placement, and weight. The idea is to create impact without excess, where craftsmanship is felt rather than immediately seen.

Beyond Restraint

In your view, what will be the key colours of the season, and how have they informed this new menswear collection at the store?
This season is about refined neutrals and softened tones. Midnight blue and black remain anchors, but we have introduced river greys, pearl, champagne, and silvery hues that feel lighter and more fluid. These colours allow silhouette and texture to take precedence, and they reflect a shift toward understated elegance rather than ceremonial intensity.

“Ornamentation must feel like an extension of the garment rather than an addition to it. In menswear, every detail has to justify its presence. ”

Looking ahead, what excites you most about the future of design, both for Gaurav Gupta as a brand and for Indian couture more broadly?
What excites me most is the freedom that Indian design is beginning to claim. We are no longer defined only by tradition or occasion. For the brand, I am excited to build more immersive experiences, where fashion intersects with architecture, movement, and technology. For Indian couture, I see a future that is globally confident, emotionally expressive, and deeply rooted in craft while being fearless in innovation.

Words Hansika Lohani 
Date 21.1.2025