Driving through the now-familiar roads of Uttarakhand, I feel a sense of calm. The roads I have been on as a student, with friends and even with family. We drove down every summer to the hills of Uttarakhand, to take in the crispness of the air, the quiet of the night, a novelty for us city dwellers. My dad was obsessed with Mussoorie, which is why we as a family trekked year after year. He showed us the more buzzy part of this place, where we appreciated the food at the Mall Road, like the eggs at Lovely Omelette, hot chocolate at Chick Chocolate and then a little further down, we used to stop by the bookstore to listen to stories of the celebrated author of this mountain, Ruskin Bond.
But years passed, and with time, we explored the same land but took back different stories. Now it was the land of slow travel for us. The land of humble and hardworking people with hearts of gold and shyness that comes from their own sense of being complete in their world. It became the resting place for the soul of the seeker, the heart of the artist, pinpointed with ancient holy sites, alive with nature and home to an increasingly vital organic movement.
This time, as our car taxied through the roads of the sleeping town-turned-city of Dehradun, I looked at those familiar roads and cafes in a new light. Crossing out of the city to the green Rajpur Road, the chill took a swipe at me. It seemed to whisper a welcome – 'You’re back'. I felt safe! The road meandered up the mountains through those too-familiar bends, the ones I’ve been on so many times; experiences that had a hand in shaping me today.
Roads are made for travellers in this area, distances are measured in the time it should take to each and anyway, no one is in a hurry. The sun will rise and set as it always does, grass will grow and vegetables will be plucked. Eventually, we all get to where we are meant to be. Today, for me it is Claridges Nabha Residence. As we delve deeper into this historical retreat, we'll explore the culinary delights that showcase the region's flavours, walk through the stunning landscapes and hidden treasures, and experience the new Cintquair Spa that makes the hotel the perfect weekend retreat.
Rooted in the layered history of Airfield, Claridges Nabha Residence is set in an estate whose history dates back to the colonial era. It is an estate that began its story in Dublin in 1830 but now carries that legacy in its own quiet, gentle way. Over the years, it has passed through many hands; from Thomas Mackey Scully and the Overend family to Ciaran O’Hara, Lieutenant Stanley Skinner, and W.A. Gordon until 1949, when Her Highness Urmilla Devi, Maharani Sahiba of Nabha, and Maharaja Pratap Singh of Nabha made it their ‘Summer Palace’.
Today, The Claridges Nabha Residence feels less like a grand estate and more like a well-kept secret. It sits on 14 acres, but only a quarter of that is built up, which means 3.5 acres remain as a quiet, green forest. Wrapped in history and softened by nature, the property feels both rooted and welcoming, like a place you slowly grow into rather than just visit.
The hotel offers four different room categories and all the modern, luxurious amenities you’d expect from a boutique property, while still staying true to its core ethos of modern Indian hospitality and high service standards. The interiors are filled with character: colonial-style furniture, carefully chosen artwork, and vintage photographs that show Mussoorie as it used to be, long before it became a bustling hill station.
There’s a small, cosy library where shelves are lined with artefacts and curios that date back centuries, alongside a thoughtfully curated selection of books on our history and heritage. It feels like the kind of room where stories linger in the air. Just next door is The Victoria Bar, with its old-world charm and an elevated selection of spirits, the sort of place where you can easily lose track of time over an evening drink.
Everything about these spaces feels distinctly colonial yet utterly charming, as if the property has been frozen in a beautiful moment from the past. And yet, it never feels outdated or stuck in time; the modern amenities, comforts, and thoughtful service ensure that your stay is seamless and contemporary, even as the soul of the place remains wonderfully, unmistakably old-world.
During my visit to The Claridges Nabha Residence, I experienced Cinqtuair Spa, the hotel’s new wellness addition and only the second of its kind in India. Every detail of the experience is carefully considered, from the calming atmosphere to the way each treatment seems designed to slow you down and fully restore you. Set against the hills, this wellness offering adds a deeply indulgent layer to the stay.
We also spent a morning exploring the Jabarkhet Nature Reserve, following the winding Leopard Trail through forests alive with birdsong and dappled light. The path eventually opened up to a quiet hilltop tea spot, where we paused to catch our breath, look out over the valleys, and admire the rhododendron trees in bloom, their red blossoms scattered like confetti across the mountainside.
I want to end this chapter of my visit to Mussoorie by talking about the food at Claridges Nabha Residence. I am from Delhi so I am very familiar with the food. Claridges as a brand, is known for owing to its Delhi outpost. Today there are newer additions, like the spa, but for us, the heart of this hotel has always been its food.
As children, we repeatedly visited the Dhaba at Claridges Delhi for its comforting North Indian dishes. When we wanted a change of scenery, we would go to The Garden Café if our parents felt like ordering some multi-cuisine plates or simply wanted to enjoy the Delhi winter outdoors.
So when we came to Claridges Nabha Residence, we brought all these memories and stories with us, hoping to relive them. We were not disappointed. The food at their restaurant, Pavilion, offers the same sense of comfort, even miles away from home. We sampled the North Indian flavours, a few continental dishes, and the Garhwali thali, which was outstanding. In a chat with the chef, I learned that a new menu is in the works. It will retain the signature favourites while introducing new options to keep up with the times.
Words Hansika Lohani
Date 8.4.2026