It's Taj, After All

Ten minutes into the forest, a leopard stepped out of the grass and looked straight at us. But before the leopard, there was the small matter of planning a trip for five people.

When we planned our trip to Jim Corbett, the chaos began before we even hit the road. There are five of us, each with our own habits and preferences, and we all exist a little differently. This was also the first time four of us were visiting a national park, so I was nervous, to say the least. The planning was meticulous, with a lot of back and forth on rooms, food requirements, itinerary and activities. But I had forgotten one thing. It's Taj, after all.

Tucked beside the Kosi River, Taj Corbett Resort & Spa does not stand tall over the landscape. It almost disappears into it. The 75-room property spreads across 11 acres of mango orchard, with hundreds of trees casting dappled shade over the pathways and the Garjiya range right alongside. It has three restaurants, a bar, a spa and a gorgeous pool, yet the hotel blends in rather than stands out. The welcome sets the tone. A Kumaoni piper and a Hudka player greet you at the entrance, the drumbeat carrying through the cool air, followed by a ceremonial tikka. The green, the birdsong and the river breeze envelop you before you reach the lobby.

What stays with you most is the service, warm and detailed down to the smallest gesture. You order a coffee and it arrives with cookies, and these are not standard cookies. They are warm, with the smell of butter and sugar reaching you before the plate does. You sit at the Tusker Bar to enjoy the cocktail program and a fresh drink appears before you have finished the last sip. Sumit Singh Rawat, our personal concierge, read us within a single meal. He knew our father's drink order like the back of his hand, and every morning at a fixed time our room's bell rang with the morning tray. He handled our reservations and special requests, and anticipated needs we had not voiced. The Tajness reached us through him.

Food at the resort is spread across three restaurants and a bar. Treetop Restaurant serves multi-cuisine fare, Jim's Grill does grilled meats and wood-fired pizzas, and Makrut Deck is the alfresco, riverside Thai restaurant. The Tusker Bar pours cocktails built around house-made vodka, Hudka and other spirits. One evening we dined on the expansive lawn under the stars, with nothing around us but the sound of the Kosi moving past in the dark. Sumit served a continental spread that began with an almond broccoli soup, its nutty warmth a welcome answer to the evening chill. Crisp fish goujons, soft ricotta dumplings and a fresh quinoa salad followed, and then pan-grilled chicken with butter-tossed vegetables. The penne in a cheesy pink sauce was pure comfort, and it disappeared from the table faster than anything else.

No trip to Corbett is complete without going into the forest. We woke at 6am and entered through the Garjiya Gate, into dense, emerald forest. The air was cold and damp, and the only sounds were the jeep's engine and alarm calls from somewhere deep in the trees. Barely ten minutes in, we saw a deer lying by the track. It was a fresh kill. We waited, hoping the predator would return for it. And then it did, a spotted leopard, walking with perfect poise, pausing to sniff the air and check who was eyeing its kill. Sightings at a kill are rare, and a leopard in tiger country is rarer still. We also spotted several kinds of deer that Corbett is known for, including chital (spotted deer), sambar and barking deer. Among the birds were hornbills and sandpipers.

On the way back, we passed villagers cutting grass at the very spot where the leopard had walked. They seemed unbothered, with no fear of what might be lurking beyond the grass. We carry our fears into walled cities, but they live here as though the earth belongs to them and they belong to the earth.

Behind all of this is a team that makes the stay feel personal. General Manager Nivedan Kukreti and his team ran the property with a quiet attentiveness, and Sumit made us feel looked after rather than served. The hotel is known for its food, and Chef Gyanesh's kitchen lives up to that reputation with every plate that reached our table.

There is plenty to do without leaving the property. Guided bird-watching walks, nature trails and bushcraft sessions let you learn from the forest around you. Archery is a fun way to pass an afternoon, and the spa is where you can unwind after an early safari. All of these are part of the resort's in-house experiences.

Fact Check

• Book safari permits well in advance through the official Corbett portal, or ask the resort to arrange them.
• Safari slots are early, so pack warm layers even if the day turns hot.
• Wear muted colours (greens, browns, khaki) and carry binoculars.
• Expect a drive of roughly 5 to 6 hours from Delhi