INTERVIEW OF THE WEEK
When traditional craftsmanship transpires in innovative tailoring and reinvention is juxtaposed with individuality, one can expect a collection worthy of the International Woolmark Prize. Ruchika Sachdeva masterfully explores transitional wardrobe staples and her purpose of using sustainable indigenous textiles to create Bodice's award-winning collection. She tells us about the development of threading it all together.
What does winning this year’s International Woolmark Prize mean to you?
It’s still sinking in. My team and I worked so hard towards this. It’s an incredible honour and opportunity to have been chosen to represent India and to have won the International Woolmark Prize for womenswear. While we are working on the next phase for Bodice, we are also planning distribution in some of the world’s leading stores and boutiques, a new website, and lots more besides! There will be regular updates and exclusive insights on our Instagram handle.
What inspired the collection?
The vibrant colours in the work of painter Tyeb Mehta inspired me deeply. He was an important figure in the post independence Progressive Artists Group and sought to create a uniquely Indian visual language of modernity. The presence of colour blocking in the collection is drawn from his experiments with solid blocks of colour to express emotion and the human condition.
The Woolmark Company
How would you describe your design sensibility?
The label is an expression of an authentic approach to beauty rooted in a spiritual philosophy of balance and wellbeing. I am always pushing myself towards exploring the power of clothes to positively impact our sense of self. Soft tailoring is the core of Bodice while the silhouettes are clean and strong. It means we consistently create comfortable, wearable and stylish clothing. Fluidity is added through the use of insert pleating that allows for graceful movement and subtle detailing.
You have a very holistic and sustainable approach towards design. Is that a conscious effort from the beginning?
It is Bodice’s over-riding philosophy to support artisanal livelihoods while embracing cutting-edge technology and exploring innovative design solutions for an environmentally sustainable fashion.
The Woolmark Company
Where does your lateral perception towards traditional Indian techniques come from?
When I returned to India, I found it almost impossible to find simple, well-cut, beautiful separates like a classic tailored pant or a white shirt. I also wanted to work with traditional artisans and find new ways of expressing their highly skilled weaving and surface ornamentation techniques. In Indian cities it can sometimes feel like one is surrounded by excess of colour and ornament. It motivated me to focus on traditions within India that are based on indigenous materials and techniques and that express values of recycling, of simplicity and thoughtful processes of making.
What was the most difficult task while designing the line and how did you master it?
Although the collection as a whole looks clean and sharp, up-close you will see many subtle decorative surface techniques involving intricate hand processes of weaving and embroidery. Some of the fabrics are hand dyed using natural plant-based dyes. I travelled across India to work with mills and artisans and it was often challenging to make sure all the elements came together.
Text Garima Gupta
Text Garima Gupta