Kosch came into being in an effort to fight against the norms of clothing that patriarchy forces on society. The founder, Barsha Tiwari, wants to romanticise menswear. ‘The idea of “classic cuts” and “traditional styles” did not sit well with me in terms of menswear. We were somehow able to put the men’s idea of style in a box but I want them to be able to express themselves, be vulnerable and talk about their feelings.’ she says. Kosch’s garment design challenges the conventions of a ‘strong man’ by leaning into soft palettes, whimsical patterns and a certain airy fluidness.
The Roots
Being born and brought up in Lucknow, I was always surrounded by different artefacts and heirloom saris, ghararas and dupattas which fascinated me visually. It was only once I did projects in college going to various craft clusters in Himachal, Ahmedabad, Bihar, Rajasthan and personally learned the skill of hand embroideries and hand weaving, it was when I realised how intensive and how skilful the people working in this field are and knowing how culturally rich the city of Awadh is, it was a no brainer. I started out with Kosch in 2022 and it has been a thorough learning experience.
The Inspiration
I look at regular people generally for silhouettes, Awadh’s heritage art and architecture for motifs. I like referencing history quite a bit, how people dressed up at a certain point of time, what must have driven that choice, so that a person who is putting on that piece of clothing can relate to it. Every piece has to have a context, otherwise we’re just making clothes for ghosts.
An Element of Surprise
The collections are constantly evolving. While some pieces may have relatively classic shapes, I like introducing an element of surprise, whether through embroidery, construction, fabric, proportion or the way a traditional reference is interpreted. For me, bringing clothing and art, architecture and history together has to feel grounded rather than forced. I am interested in creating a dialogue between these worlds rather than simply reproducing historical references. I also think that expanding the way men perceive and engage with fashion is a gradual process. So, in many ways, our identity is evolving alongside that conversation. We don’t want to define Kosch too rigidly, I would rather allow it to grow organically.
The Driving Force
To be able to create something new which could add value and not take away. I feel today we are making things just for the sake of it [with no purpose]. There needs to be a strong force or value that drives you. I often ask myself: if I am introducing this object into the world, what value is it going to add? Whose life is it going to change, even if that change is small? And, perhaps most importantly, will the end result justify the resources that went into creating it?
What Lies Ahead
At the moment, we are working on Kosch’s new Spring/Summer collection. We are taking things a little slower this time around. I also took some time away to upskill, experiment and conduct market research, which has helped me reassess where I want the brand to go next. One of our key focuses now is expanding our sales internationally, so the new collection is also being developed with a more global audience in mind. For me, the next phase of Kosch is about growing without losing the intimacy and integrity with which it began, continuing to work closely with craftspeople, exploring new ways of presenting Indian craft, and finding a place for those traditions within a contemporary global menswear landscape.
Words Neeraja Srinivasan
Date 30.9.2026
Founder, Barsha Tiwari